Givenchy research
For my project I wanted to do research in Givenchy. Today in class I was already allowed to start with this.
Hubert de Givenchy (1927) born in France was a French fashion designer who was known for his chic, feminine and elegant designs. He was only 24 years old when he founded his House in 1952. He maintained very low overhead costs in order to lower the prices of his designs.
With his first collection of clothes with detailed separates, elegant ball gowns and high-style coats gained recognition worldwide. This collection consisted of silk prints, embroidered fabrics and imaginative accessories. This was the start of his succes.
Givenchy was particularly known for rethinking the concept of youth through tastefulness and refinement.Givenchy was very close with Balenciaga during the late 1950s. They were both passionate about creating very linear looks based on central, singular lines. He was also known for his fitting, especially female cocktail and evening dresses with extravagant textures utilized in full, long skirts. Both designers worked to improve their textures, centering on adjusting the quality and colour ranges of their materials.
Givenchy said that the texture of the fabrics motivates you to begin with. After this comes the creation or design and knowing how to donate the texture its best conceivable value. During those many years of designing couture collections there were always fabrics he liked more than other. He looked at the appeal, the smell of the silk, the feel of a velvet, the crackle of a 'duchess' satin, and the colours .This gave him inspiration for his designs, because for him it wasn't just fabrics.
Givenchy created his own trapeze silhouetted gowns inspired by the haute couture designs of Balenciaga. He embraced his dream of liberated woman and created his own version of the baby doll dress.
After selling his business to the luxury Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey in 1988, he designed for seven more years, and he retired. He presented his final collection in 1995. His work was displayed in many exhibitions at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and the Musée Galliera in Paris. He also received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 1996.
These designs caught my eye because of the glitter, feathers and the shiny silk. These will fit well for my theme. In my previous research I had already indicated that I might want to use palazzo pants, and if I am going to process this with shiny silk it makes my design more beautiful and chic. I could use the feathers as a hair accessory, which brings out the fairytale theme more.
Hubert de Givenchy (1927) born in France was a French fashion designer who was known for his chic, feminine and elegant designs. He was only 24 years old when he founded his House in 1952. He maintained very low overhead costs in order to lower the prices of his designs.
With his first collection of clothes with detailed separates, elegant ball gowns and high-style coats gained recognition worldwide. This collection consisted of silk prints, embroidered fabrics and imaginative accessories. This was the start of his succes.
Givenchy has sensually reinterpreted the codes of elegance, sophistication and femininity
One of his famous design was the "Bettina blouse" named after the model Bettina Graziani. This blouse was an experiment of white broadcloth with tiers and flamenco eyelet ruffles at the sleeve that gave women the idea that they could define their own style, rather than follow the fashion rules dictated in that era.
One of Givenchy's most famous affiliates was actress Audrey Hepburn, who wore his designs in Breakfast at Tiffany's and Charade, among other films. She was always on his side and they became really close together.
One of his famous design was the "Bettina blouse" named after the model Bettina Graziani. This blouse was an experiment of white broadcloth with tiers and flamenco eyelet ruffles at the sleeve that gave women the idea that they could define their own style, rather than follow the fashion rules dictated in that era.
In his following collections, he highlighted elegant evening gowns, feminine hats and tailored suits.
Also in 194 he designed the first shirt dress, which later received the name sack dress in 1957. He was the first high fashion designer to create a luxury ready to wear clothing line.
In the seventies, he launched a menswear line, and became one of the first designers to put his brand on more than just clothing.
The vision he had was that he was determined to give woman more plentiful options of clothing. Focused on the separates designs so that they could be mixed and matched at will. This was an innovation for many because this gave woman the oppertunity to make changes in her costume.
One of Givenchy's most famous affiliates was actress Audrey Hepburn, who wore his designs in Breakfast at Tiffany's and Charade, among other films. She was always on his side and they became really close together.
Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s in her Givenchy black dress / 1961
Cristobal Balenciaga was seen as a revolutionary figure, and his reputation for perfectionism in tailoring techniques was expanded throughout the 1950s. He was known for his linear, clean designs that kept away from the curved, body conscious shapes of Dior’s “New Look”. Balenciaga was also know for the balloon jacket, cocoon coat, and the sack dress, contrasted by evening pieces featuring sculpted swan collars and cropped cuffs.
Givenchy said that the texture of the fabrics motivates you to begin with. After this comes the creation or design and knowing how to donate the texture its best conceivable value. During those many years of designing couture collections there were always fabrics he liked more than other. He looked at the appeal, the smell of the silk, the feel of a velvet, the crackle of a 'duchess' satin, and the colours .This gave him inspiration for his designs, because for him it wasn't just fabrics.
The dress is made from sheer mesh and satin fabrics. With this design too he wanted to free women from corsets and padding that is why this dress is very light.
Baby doll dress by Givenchy
Created in the same year as the Baby Doll Dress, he created the Balloon coat. Also inspired by liberated women. The coat is made of wool.
This design influenced fashion of that decade with its sloped shoulders and wide silhouette. You can still see this design incorporated into clothing today.
Balloon coat by Givenchy
After selling his business to the luxury Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey in 1988, he designed for seven more years, and he retired. He presented his final collection in 1995. His work was displayed in many exhibitions at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and the Musée Galliera in Paris. He also received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 1996.
Claire Waight Keller is now the creative designer of Givenchy.
She has a new vision and with her summer collection she released in 2019, she wanted to have more equal clothes for men and woman, so the gap is smaller between gender clothing
One collection that caught my eye was the Fall collection in 2018. The collection includes draped dresses, capes, sequins, feathers and voluminous jewels. I think this match really well with my theme and reflects mystery.
Draped dress of Givenchy’s Haute Couture collection show in Paris. Photo: Xinhua
A look with feathers from the collection. Photo: AFP
Dress with glitters by Givenchy's haute couture collection in Paris
Reference:
CR Fashion Book. 2021. Givenchy Muses Throughout History. [online] Available at: <https://www.crfashionbook.com/fashion/g26802695/givenchy-muses-throughout-history/> [Accessed 3 February 2021]LVMH. 2021. Givenchy, high end ready-to-wear for men and women - Fashion & Leather Goods - LVMH. [online] Available at: <https://www.lvmh.com/houses/fashion-leather-goods/givenchy/> [Accessed 3 February 2021]
Biography. 2021. Hubert de Givenchy. [online] Available at: <https://www.biography.com/fashion-designer/hubert-de-givenchy> [Accessed 3 February 2021].
Biography. 2021. Hubert de Givenchy. [online] Available at: <https://www.biography.com/fashion-designer/hubert-de-givenchy> [Accessed 3 February 2021].
Encyclopedia Britannica. 2021. Hubert de Givenchy | French fashion designer. [online] Available at: <https://www.britannica.com/biography/Hubert-de-Givenchy> [Accessed 3 February 2021]
South China Morning Post. 2021. Givenchy brings mystery and old-school Hollywood glamour to Paris Haute Couture shows. [online] Available at: <https://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/fashion-beauty/article/2154092/givenchy-brings-mystery-and-old-school-hollywood> [Accessed 3 February 2021]
Phelps, N., 2021. Givenchy Fall 2018 Couture Collection. [online] Vogue. Available at: <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-couture/givenchy> [Accessed 3 February 2021]
ONE WHO DRESSES. 2021. The Timeless Philosophy of Hubert de Givenchy — One Who Dresses. [online] Available at: <https://www.onewhodresses.com/library/2018/3/the-timeless-philosophy-of-hubert-de-givenchy> [Accessed 7 February 2021]
Good work on the research - you do need source links underneath you images though. I think you could have gone into more depth about the two designs that this was focussed on more about the cuts and style of the dresses using more technical terms and the fabric and their source.
ReplyDelete'Givenchy studied at apprenticeship with Jacques Fath, leading him to work with Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong and legendary designer Elsa Schiaparelli. With Schiaparelli he developed a particular sensitivity to fabric; when she asked him to use up 900 metres of her pre-war Surrealist-print silks, he hung the cloth up to understand its’ innate properties, before cutting into it, a pioneering technique that taught him about weight and drape, and one which he would adopt for the rest of his career. “Never work against the fabric,” he commented, “it has a life of its’ own.”'https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2020/01/23/hubert-de-givenchy-parisian-chic/ 'his high-waisted baby doll dress, the gracefully draped cocoon coat, and the balloon skirt, shown as a single pouf or doubled, one pouf on top of the other. Neither the sack dress, introduced in 1957, nor the chemise of 1958 had a discernible waist, but both were considered universally flattering and were copied by a large number of ready-to-wear manufacturers at every price range. With these design innovations, Balenciaga achieved what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women.'https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bale/hd_bale.htm
I just think there is much more to say here about what should have been the focus of this research really understanding the designs you are researching