Initial research

Because my project has changed today, I have not yet done any research for week 2. I have now selected other designers who fit my new project. So hereby my research in three fashion designers.


Firstly, I have chosen to research Madeleine Vionnet. She is a French fashion designer born in 1876. What made her unique as a fashion designer was that she applied the technique of cutting fabric diagonally and therefore, she changed the way clothes could be cut. 

In 1907 she had her break through when fashion designer Jacques Doucet hired her for his ateliers to attract younger clients. Her first collection was shown on models wearing neither shoes or corsets. The reason behind this was because she was a great fan of the modern free form dance sensation of Duncan.

In 1912 she opened her own fashion house in France. It had a huge impact on fashionable women, because they threw away their corsets to embrace their figure instead of changing it. It was a turning point in the 20th century fashion, because the body was no longer slim.  Madeleine Vionnet designed that falls more smoothly along the body. She studied classical Greek statues and she became obsessed with the soft flattery of clothes. This was her inspiration by cutting fabric on the bias. She created a completely new shape.
Madeleine Vionnet's simple styles were designed to match the curves of a woman’s body,  Her designs continued to impact the fashion world throughout the following decades. She also  developed concepts and creative strategies that still characterise fashion today. She is now know as a creative fashion icon.

Satin evening dress, Madeleine Vionnet, 1932 – 34, France. Museum no. T.203&A-1973. Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Silk evening dress, Madeleine Vionnet in Paris, France in 1930

Considering Madeleine Vionnet's designs, I find it inspiring how she admires the female body. Even though her designs don't fit the body, I still find it very feminine and sexy.  Like in the picture above I really like the waterfall / v-neck and how the rest of the dress falls loose against her body.
I am considering using these shapes in my designs. Maybe use the top of the dress as a top. Because the bottom is loose, I got the idea to design palazzo pants. Maybe to combine together or to combine the top with a skirt.


Secondly I have researched Anna Molinari. She is an Italian fashion designer born in 1958. At the end of the 1970s she founded Blumarine, together with her husband. This was a line of ready to wear knitwear. In 1980 she received a prize for best creator of the year. In 1981 she designed a collection for girls from four to fourteen years old. In 1995 she designed two more lines, an innovative and experimental collection and a collection inspired for young, romantic, yet irreverent women. One of these two lines called Blugirl, which is a younger derivative of Blumarine walks with the same realm as Miu Miu does with Prada.

Anna Molinari is known as the queen of roses because of her inspiration from these sensual flowers. Using roses in her design she created a female sensuality of highly feminine garments with detailing. Her concept such as fantasy, passion, romanticism, fascination and curiosity are found in her designs.

Fashion is her greatest passion and she has created clothes that are considered true statement pieces. Think about the t-shirts with the logo spelt out in Swarovski crystal or the famous Blu-Vi, the small cardigan in cashmere with a mink collor.

Blumarine cotton T-shirt with crystal logo
https://www.giglio.com/eng/clothing-women_t-shirt-blumarine-23403.html

Milan fashion week, Anna Molinari

Fall winter collection 2019, Anna Molinari

I found this designer appealing because of her concepts and the thoughts behind it.
The roses incorporated into her dress
 in the picture give me a romantic feeling and I am also considering incorporating into one of my designs, because it fits the theme of a fairytale. My target group for my project is between 18 and 25 years old and this designer also focuses on this age catalog.
I want to consider the a-line skirt as pictured above for my design. 
The dress is elegant and sexy. it has a different look through the accessories.
The dress reminds me of a fairytale. Of course also because of the gloves, but also because of the color of the dress. Because of this I also have to think carefully about which color palette I want to use. 











Top fashion designers (No date) Anna Molinari [Online] Available from:
https://www.top-fashion-designers.info/anna-molinari.html (Accessed 26th January 2021)

The fashion spot (2009) Interview with Anna Molinari [Online] Available from: 
https://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/20495-interview-with-anna-molinari/
(Accessed 25th January 2021)

Fashion Elite (No date) Anna Molinari [Online] Available from:
https://fashionelite.com/profile/anna-molinari/ (Accessed 26th January 2021)

Catwalk yourself (No date) Madeleine Vionnet [Online] Available from:
http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-biographies/madaleine-
vionnet/ 
(Accessed 26th January 2021)

Business of fashion (No date) Madeleine Vionnet 1876/1975 [Online] Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/madeleine-vionnet-1876-1975 (Accessed 26th January 2021)

Yolan Cris (No date) Icons Madeleine Vionnet [Online] Available from:
https://www.yolancris.com/icons-madeleine-vionnet/ (Accessed 26th January 2021)

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